Thiksey
gompa was built some 600 years ago and consists of 12
levels ascending a hillside, culminating in an incarnate
Lama's private apartments at the summit. The gompa contains
10 temples; below the monastery itself are chapels and
"houses" stretching down the hillside. Some
100 monks of the yellow-hat sect of Buddhism live here.
After entering the main courtyard to the immediate right
and up several steps is a new temple containing a large
Buddha statue. This Buddha figure, 15 meters tall was
constructed in 1970 to comemmorate a visit to Thiksey
by the Dalai Lama. The statue is the largest Buddha
figure in Ladakh and took four years to construct. The
statue is made of clay and covered with gold paint.
Inside, the statue is filled with both the Kandshur
and the Tandshur - volumes of Buddhist canonical texts.
The statue was made entirely by local craftsmen and
represents Maitreya, ("compassion" in Sanskrit)
the Buddha of the Future. The prophecy made of the Future
Buddha is that the world will be undergoing such chaos
that the Future Buddha will teach compassion to the
people.
Located directly above this temple is a small narrow
room used as a schoolroom for local boys. Here the lamas
instruct the children and some are later selected to
become lamas. Traditionally, Ladakhi families donated
one son to become a lama although this practice is gradually
disappearing. Returning to the main courtyard and going
up the steep steps directly across from the new temple,
on the far wall will be mural of two Tibetan calendars
with the "Wheel of Life" depicted between
them. The central portion of the wheel has representations
of a snake, a bird and a pig, symbolizing greed, desire
and ignorance respectively. Buddhists believe that it
is crucial to overcome these earthly ties in order to
become enlightened and escape the cycle of death and
rebirth. The wheel is held by Yama, a black figure who,
after people's death, determines their future fate based
on their deeds during their lifetime. To the right of
these murals is the main prayer room which contains
racks of books along the left wall. Many of these books
are handwritten or hard painted. Recent editions are
done by block printing, as was previously done in Tibet.
In a small room behind the Dukhang is a large image
of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha) flanked by two
smaller Bodhisttva images. On the left is the 11-headed
Avalokitesvara, form of the Buddha corresponding to
the Hindu god Shiva. Exiting the main prayer room, partially
down the staircase to the main courtyard is a steep,
narrow set of steps to the left. While climbing these
steps, one can see several temples devoted to various
guardian divinities. Near the summit and to the right
is a small temple devoted to Maitreya, the future Buddha.
The wall decorations consist of a series of small images
of lamas, each placed in a separate wooden rack with
thankas behind. An enclosed verandah, which is actually
over the main prayer room, leads to the head lama's
private apartments, all of which were recently decorated
in Tibetan style. The inside walls of the verandah have
modern paintings of the eighty-four Tantric Masters.
On the rooftop is the Lamukhang temple where only men
may enter. Also on the rooftop is Thiksey's library,
containing numerous religious books including volumes
of the Kandshur and Tandshur mentioned earlier.