Tak Thok gompa
is situated some 10 km further up from Chemre gompa
in the Chemre Valley. The name Tak Thok in Lladakhi
means "Rock Rood" and refers to the cave chapel
found in this unusual gompa. The Rimpoche of Tak Thok
is from Tibet and is highly respected by Ladakhis. The
gompa houses about 55 lamas of the Nying-ma-pa sect
of Buddhism, also known as the "Old Order".
Members of this sect are followers of Padme Sambhava's
teachings and Tak Thok is the only gompa in Ladakkh
that follows this order. Entering the main courtyard,
one is immediately struck by the rock outcroppings that
surround the gompa. Indeed, the wooden front of the
chapel is only a front for the cave behind it and most
of the gompa consists of rooms hollowed out of the stone
cliff by nature or man. The cave chapel is to the left
as one enters the central courtyard. A small anteroom
to the cave chapel has been recently painted with the
Guardian Divinities of the Four Directions. In the front
of the cave chapel are images of Padme Sambhava and
Avalokitesvara. Behind this image is a small locked
door leading to the small cave where Padme Sambhava
is supposed to have lived and meditated for three years.
This cave is not open to the public. The low roof of
the chapel is the stone of the cliff. Leaving the cave
ahapel, go up a flight of stairs and on the right will
be the Kandshur Lhakhang. The Kandshur is the 108 volumes
of Buddha's teachings and a complete set of this important
religious work is found in this temple. There are also
statues of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha) with his
two chief disciples by his side. The walls are decorated
with murals of guardian divinities. Opposite the Kandshur
Lhakhang and to the left is a small chapel containing
religious books and four Buddha statues.
Returning
to the central courtyard, the Dukhang or main assembly
hall will be on the right (the same side as the courtyard
entrance). The verandah entrance to the Dukhang has
beautiful new murals of guardian divinities. These murals
are covered by cloth all year, except during the gompa's
festival, in order to preserve their color but just
lift the cloth up to admire the workmanship. In the
Dukhang are several rows of low seats for the lamas.
Opposite the entrance is a throne seat reserved solely
for the Dalai Lama. To the left of this throne seat
is a wall painting of Padme Shambhava and on the right
is a painting of Sakyamuni. On the right wall towards
the front is a glass-fronted case of small, colorful
sculptures made of butter mixed with barley flour. To
the right of this case are three large statues of Maitreya
(the Future Buddha or Buddha of Compassion). Padme Sambhava
and Dorje Takposal (a manifestation of Padme Sambhava).
The other walls are newly painted with depictions of
guardian divinities done by the same Ladakhi artist
who painted the topmost temple in Chemre. Across the
central courtyard of the Dukhang are behind a low wall
is the gompa's kitchen, interesting mainly for its location
under the overhanging rock-face.