Spituk
Gompa Spituk gompa was
built about 550 years ago by Gyalpo Bumide, although
one temple, dedicated to Mahakala was built about 900
years ago. The Spitok is probably derived from the Central
Tibetan language and means "Effective as an Example",
referring to the fact that this was the Tibetans' first
monastery in Ladakh. Spituk gompa contains both old
temples and those built in the 1970s. Ancient thankas
are preserved here, some having been taken from the
Potala Palace and Lhasa after the Chinese invaded. Some
125 yellow-hat sect lamas are considered Spituk lamas,
but at least half of them live and pray at Spitok's
dependent monasteries at Sankar, Stok and Sabu. All
the lamas gather together for a major festival. The
head lama of Spituk is also the head Lama for Ladakh
and represents Ladakh has been India's serving ambassador
to Mongolia and was also a member of Parliament. After
ascending and descending several flights of stair, one
is in the main courtyard. It is here that Spitok's main
festival, the Spitok Gurstor, is celebrated in mid-winter.
Masked dances take place here, ending with the sacrificial
destruction of a cake. Hence, the festival is known
as the Spitok Festival of the Sacrifice of the 29th
Day. The festival takes place on the 28th and 29th days
of the 11th month of the Tibetan calendar. The monastery
also has a statue of Kali whose face is covered throughout
the year but displayed to the public for one day during
the festival. Steep steps leading from the main courtyard
lead to the Dukhang or main temple. The walls both inside
and outside the entryway have pictures of fierce protecting
deities. Inside the Dukhang are five rows of low seats
for the lamas and a high throne at the far end, reserved
for the Dalai Lama, although he has only made one visit
here since leaving Tibet in 1959. Behind the throne
are manifestations of Lord Buddha. On both side walls
of the Dukhang are Buddhist canonical texts.
Beside the central throne are doors leading to a low
dark chapel behind. In a central position are images
of Tsong-kha-pa, founder of the yellow-hat sect of Buddhism
and his two chief disciples as well as an image of the
Buddha. On the left is an image of Tara the Saviouress
and consort of Avalokitesvara, and on the right are
statues of previous head lamas. From the main courtyard
one can reach another smaller courtyard that is in front
of the Chikhang temple, another assembly hall similar
to the Dukhang. This temple was built around 1960 and
contains beautiful murals on all the walls. The room
is dominated by a statue of Sakyamuni, the Historical
Buddha. To the right is a statue of the 11 headed Avalokitesvara,
the "Lord of All He Surveys" and analogous
to the Hindu god Shiva. A small room behind the Buddha
statue is dedicated to a guardian divinity whose image
remains covered all year, except for one day during
Spituk's winter festival. The new Chokhang temple is
several levels above the Dukhang courtyard. It is here
that funeral ceremonies take place. The central large
statue is of Sakyamuni. To the left of the Buddha is
a statue of Padme Sambhava, an 8th century Indian Buddhist
scholar who translated the Buddhist texts into Tibetan
from their original languages of Pali and Sanskrit.
To the right is a statue of the goddess Tara. The temple
also contains many exquisite thankas, some quite new.
Diagonally opposite the Chokhang and on the same level
is a small temple called Dolma Lokhang which is devoted
to Tara (Dolma in Ladakh). In this temple are 21 beautiful
statues of Tara, representing her different forms. The
gilded clay figure on a horse represents the King of
Ladakh, Shukdan. Next to the temple is the head lama's
private apartment.
The largest temple, standing above the other temples
near the crest of the rocks is the Gonkhang. Although
another name for this temple is Kali Mata, the temple
is not dedicated to the Hindu goddess Kali, but rather
to Mahakala, the fiercest Buddhist guardian divinity.
Together with the image of Mahakala are the images of
other fierce guardians: the "Six-Armed One"a
form of Mahakala, the White Guardian, the Brother and
Sister, Khyitra on his dog and the Goddess on her horse.
The last one is derived from the Hindu goddess Kali
who entered the Buddhist pantheon of gods in a minor
capacity. The images of Mahakala and the six-armed form
of Mahakala are carved from black stone and are very
old. In order to clearly see the images in this dimly
lit temple, it is necessary to bring a very strong flashlight.