Rajgir:
Second turning of the Wheel of Dharma
When
Gautama the ascetic first visited Rajgir on his way
to Bodhgaya he was met by King Bimbisara. The king was
so impressed by the bodhisattva that he tried every
means to persuade him to stay. Failing in this, he received
a promise that Gautama would return to Rajgir after
his enlightenment. Accordingly, after teaching in Sarnath,
the Buddha travelled to Rajgir, the royal capital of
Magadha, followed by over a thousand monks of the new
order. King Bimbisara welcomed them all and offered
the Veluvana Bamboo Grove. This was to be the first
property of the Order and one of the Buddha's favourite
residences. The site was ideal for a monastic order,
being not too near the city, calm by day and night,
free from biting insects and having mild air and tanks
of cool water. Thus it was suited to the practice of
meditation, and here Shakyamuni passed the first rainy
season retreat following his enlightenment. He was to
return to this place for several rainy season retreats
later in his life. When Hsuan Chwang visited Rajgir
he saw a monastery and the Kalanda tank, where Shakyamuni
bathed and which still exists. Close to this stood an
Ashoka Stupa and a pillar surmounted by an elephant.
Not far away King Ajatasatru had built two stupas, one
over the portion of the Buddha's relics that he had
received, the other over half of Ananda's body. Later
Ashoka unearthed the first of these to obtain relics
for his 84,000 stupas.
Perhaps the most important event of the Buddha's first
visit to Rajgir was the conversion of Sariputra and
Maudgalyayana. The story of their conversion is as follows.
Ashvajit, last of the five ascetics to be converted
by Buddha, was making his alms round one morning and
happened to meet Sariputra. Sariputra was greatly impressed
by the monk's noble and subdued demeanor, and asked
him what teachings he followed. Sariputra immediately
attained arhantship, and when he repeated what he had
heard to his friend Maudgalyayana, he also instantly
achieved the same. Later, stupas were erected at the
places associated with these events. The two left their
teacher Sanjaya and came with 500 of their former followers
to meet the Buddha. Buddha welcomed both as his chief
disciples, Sariputra having the greater intelligence,
Maudgalyayana wielding the greatest miraculous powers.
Both were born near Rajgir and later, retiring to their
respective villages, entered nirvana before the Buddha
did. During his stay in Rajgir, Shakyamuni received
two significant invitations: one from his father King
Suddhodana, the other from a wealthy merchant who wanted
him to spend the next rainy season in Shravasti. Accepting
both, the Buddha returned briefly to Kapilavastu and
sent Sariputra to Shravasti to prepare for his visit
there. Shakyamuni later visited Rajgir on a number of
occasions. On several of these, attempts were made on
his life. Once a lay follower of the nirgrantha jains
concealed a fire-pit in front of his house and invited
the Buddha to a meal of poisoned food. However, the
pit changed into a lotus pond with a flower bridge and
the Buddha proved that one freed of all inner poisons
could not be harmed by external means. At another time
he predicted the birth of a son to the wife of a jain,
who in defiance killed her. But as her body was being
burnt, the child came forth from amidst the flames.
Stupas marking these places were later seen by the Chinese
pilgrims.
King
Ajatasatru, who had usurped his father Bimbisara's throne
and allowed him to die in prison, came under the evil
influence of Shakyamuni's jealous cousin Devadatta,
who had tried to force the Buddha to permit him to lead
the Order. Failing to achieve this, Devadatta invited
the young king to harm the Buddha. Professional assassins
were hired for this purpose, yet in the end they fell
at the Buddha's feet in devotion. The king then let
loose a maddened elephant from his palace, but the animal,
affected by the Buddha's presence, fell on its knees
out of homage to him. It is also in Rajgir that a young
boy later to be reborn as the great king Ashoka came
to him and offered him a handful of sand, wishing it
were gold. Yet the most important of all associations
of the Buddha with Rajgir is that with Vulture's Peak,
a small mountain just outside the city. Here, sixteen
years after his enlightenment, he set forth the second
turning of the wheel of Dharma to an assembly of 5,000
monks, nuns and laity, as well as innumerable bodhisattvas.
This collection of teachings, which extended over twelve
years, includes the Saddharmapundarika Sutra and the
Surangama Samadhi Sutra, as well as many Prajna-paramita
Sutras, which, as the Buddha himself told Ananda, contain
the very essence of all his teachings. Mahakashyapa
recorded these latter teachings and Shakyamuni placed
them in the custody of the nagas until such time as
men were ready to receive them. The Buddha's respect
for Mahakashyapa was such that when they first met,
the two exchanged cloaks. The great disciple now resides
within the Gurupada Mountain near Bodhgaya. Here he
awaits Maitreya, upon whom he will place the cloak of
Shakyamuni.
When
the Chinese pilgrims visited Vulture's Peak they found
the summit green and bare. Fa Hien mentions a cave and
Hsuan Chwang a hall slightly below it, where the Buddha
is said to have sat and preached. Here also he once
reached through the mountain with his hand to calm Ananda,
whose meditation was being disturbed by Mara in the
form of a vulture. Before the cave were the walking
and sitting places of the previous buddhas, and a stupa
where the Saddharmapundarika Sutra was taught.
King
Bimbisara built a causeway leading up to the hill. At
the foot of the hill was Amaravana, the mango grove
offered to the Buddha by the physician Jivaka. The remains
of what was once a monastery may still be seen here.
According to Hsuan Chwang, at one time on Vulture's
Peak there was a monastery occupied by many meditators
and several arhants. The final journey of Buddha's life,
which ended with the mahaparinirvana at Kushinagar began
at Rajgir. Shortly after this, the First Council-an
assembly of 500 monks presided over by Mahakashyapa-met
under the patronage of Ajatasatru in the Shrataparna
Cave, a short distance southwest of Veluvana Bamboo
Park, and compiled the Buddha's teachings into a collection
known as the Sthaviranikaya. A stupa once marked the
spot where, with great exertion, Ananda achieved arhantship
on the night before the council in order that he might
attend. Ashoka later erected a stupa in honour of this
First Council at the place a distance west of Shrataparna
Cave where at the same time the mahasanghikas, regarded
by some as proto-mahayanists, compiled their canon.
According to Nagarjuna, an assembly of bodhisattvas
also met on Vimalasvabhava Mountain, located to the
south of Rajgir, and compiled the mahayana scriptures.
Nagarjuna states that Samantabhadra presided over this
meeting, while Vajrapani recited the Sutras, Maitreya
the Vinaya and Manjushri the Abhidharma.
The
sites of many of these events may still be found in
and around Rajgir, which is also a flourishing pilgrimage
centre of hindus and jains. A Burmese temple offers
resting facilities for pilgrims and there is a new Japanese
temple near the remains of Ajatasatru's stupas. Vulture's
Peak retains a quiet peace, but just as Pa Hien warned
of lions and tigers at certain places of pilgrimage
during his lifetime, here present pilgrims should beware
of bandits. The Ratna Girl Hill above the Vulture's
Peak is now crowned by the beautiful Vishwa-Shanti Stupa,
built recently by Japanese buddhists. On four sides
golden statues of the Buddha depict his four great actions:
birth, enlightenment, teaching and passing away. In
a nearby temple, Japanese monks continue their strident
practice of resounding sutra and drum. Lastly, one may
remember that the Buddha sent the sixteen arhants to
various parts of the world to safeguard his doctrine,
and one of them, Kshudrapanthaka came to and still resides
on Vulture's Peak. Today, Rajgir is a picturesque and
serene place, visited by pilgrims from all over the
globe. It has also gained recognition as a health resort
due to its hot springs and healthy climate.
Places
to See
Shanti Stupa - located on top of the Ratnagiri hill,
3kms from the hot springs is reached by a chair-lift.
Ruins - the main sites include parts of the ruined city,
caves and places associated with Ajatashatru and his
father Bhimbisara like Ajatashatru's Fort
Griddhakuta - or the 'hills of Vultures' was one of
Buddha's favourite places where he delivered some of
his most famous sermons and converted King Bhimbisara
of the Magadha Kingdom and countless others to creed.
Saptparni Cave - located on one of the hills is where
the first Buddhist council was held immediately after
Buddha attained nirvana. The Cave is also the source
of Rajgir's hot water springs that have curative properties
and is sacred to Hindus. There is also a Burmese temple,
an interesting Jain exhibition and a modern Japanese
temple.