Phyang gompa is
also known in Ladakhi as the Gouon gompa, meaning "blue
peak" for it is beautifully situated on a hilltop
above the small village of Chhiwang, about 22 km west
of Leh. The monastery was built by King Lkra-Shis-Namgyal,
founder of the Namgyal dynasty in 1500 after defeating
the last of the Lha-Chen kings. Lkra-Shis-Namgyal ruled
from 1500 to 1532 and during his reign, filled the monastery
with beautiful statues, thankas and copies of the Kandshur
(the translated word of the Buddha) and the Thandshur
(the 225 volume commentary on the Kandshur compiled
by the religious teacher Du-ston, 1290 to 1364 AD).
These extremely valuable texts are still at Phyang gompa.
Phyang is a monastery of the red-hat sect of Buddhism
with over 100 lamas. The head lama studied Buddhist
philosophy at a university near Lhasa for eight years
and had much of the gompa renovated in 1975. After ascending
several small flights of stairs, one reaches the rather
small main courtyard with its tall flag pole in the
center. The Dukhang or main assembly hall is off this
courtyard up another small flight of steps. The verandah
in front of the Dukhang has been recently painted with
beautiful murals of the Guardians of the Four Directions.
Entering the Dukhang one immediately notices the glassed-in
sanctuary opposite the entrance. The central statue
is Amitabha (the Boundless Light Buddha or Buddha of
the West) and to the left are statues of a large Avalokitesvara
with 1,000 arms, which symbolize his enormous strength,
and various lamas of the red-hat sect. To the right
of the central statue are images of Tilopa (a founder
of the red-hat sect) and Maitreya. In the background
the statues portray (from the left) Sakyamuni (the Historical
Buddha), Vairocana (the Teaching Buddha) and Maitreya.
The walls of the Dukhang are decorated with murals of
Vajradhara (a Buddha manifestation), the Five Buddhas
(Vairocana and the Supreme Buddhas of the Four Directions)
and small paintings of the Thousand Buddhas in the background.
Hanging
on the columns on the right side of the Dukhang is an
enormous rolled-up thanka. This thanka, embroidered
with depictions of all the guardian divinities, is unfurled
during the Phyang festival, usually in August, and is
four stories high when completely unrolled. After exiting
the Dukhang turn to the left and walk along the pathway
until you reach the next left turn, to the Gonkhang.
This temple is dedicated to Mahakala the "Great
and Black One", the fiercest guardian divinity
in the Buddhist pantheon of gods. The statues at the
front of the temple are of Mahakala flanked by four
statues of his various manifestations. The faces of
these statues are covered with cloth and only displayed
to the public once a year during the Phyang festival.
The pillars in this temple are partially covered with
tiger hides that were presented by an official of Kind
Jamying Namgyal to Phyang gompa in 1595. Also hanging
from the pillars in this temple are ancient Mongolian
armaments, including armour, shields and helmets. These
objects were taken from Mongolian soldiers who were
killed in a battle on the site the gompa now occupies.
For no discernible reason, on the right side of the
temple is a poorly stuffed Siberian crane, taken near
the Chinese border and over the entry door are two stuffed
ibex heads. The wall murals in the Gokhang depict Mahakala's
various and numerous manifestations. Behind the Mahakala
satues are wall murals of Mila Ras-pa, Sakyamuni, Tilopa,
Marpa and Naropa. With the exception of Sakyamuni ,
these are all historical personages associated with
the founding of the red-hat sect.
The
"New" Dukhang was built by Dam-chos Gyur-med,
the 31st and previous incarnation of the present head
lama. The verandah to this Dukhang also has wall murals
of the Guardians of the Four Directions. Inside the
Dukhang and directly opposite the entrance is a throne
sea reserved for the head lama. To the right of the
throne are stucco images of Avalokitesvara with four
arms and various lamas of the red-hat sect. To the left
of the throne are images of three lamas, the middle
one being Kun-dga Grags-pa, founding lama of Phyang
gompa. There is also a small group of Kashmiri Buddhist
bronze statues flanking the throne. These date from
the 14th century at the latest. The side walls of the
Dukhang contain murals of Sakyamuni flanked by his two
chief disciples and images of various Buddhas with the
eight different hand gestures: that of blessing, teaching,
etc. The entrance walls are decorated with murals of
the various guardian divinities. On the right side of
the Dukhang are also two chortens decorated with semi
precious stones. The larger one contains the relics
Dam-chos Gyur-med, the previous Rimpoche of Phyang and
the builder of this temple. Along the top of the Dukhang
is a narrow walkway with mural paintings on three sides.
The two side walls depict guardian divinities. The wall
opposite the entrance shows Jig-sten Gon-po, a holy
teacher associated with the red-hat sect of Tibetan
Buddhism, in the center. He is flanked by various other
lamas of the red-hat sect.