Matho
Gompa Matho gompa lies
about 20 km south of Leh on the other side of the Indus
River and offers spectacular views of the Ladakh range
from its perch on top of a ridge. Matho gompa was first
established in the 16th century by Tungpa Dorje after
he had traveled extensively in Tibet. Matho is the only
representative monastery in Ladakh of the Sakya order
of Tibetan Buddhism. This is a particular religious
order. Centered on the Sa-skya monastery in Tibet, which
was founded in 1075 AD. Today the gompa has about 60
lamas and 30 novices from the larger gompas in Ladakh.
Entering the gompa's central courtyard, one sees a tall
flag pole in the center and another one at the far end.
On the same side of the courtyard as the entrance and
up a few steps is the Lhakhang Soma or New Temple, built
in 1974. The verandah has new mural paintings of the
Guardians of the Four Directions and an elaborately
and colorfully decorated doorway. Inside the Lhakhang
all the wall murals were painted in 1977 and are very
colorfully done. The left wall next to the entrance
portrays Matho's founder, Tungpa Dorje, with representatives
of Matho's two oracles below him. Next to him is an
idealized portrait of the present head lama of the Sakya
sect. The right entrance wall shows a White Mahakala
(a particularly fierce protecting deity) and to the
left of this is a painting of the Four Headed Sarvavid
(the omniscient or guardian aspect of Vairocana (the
Teaching Buddha).
The
wall murals on the left side of the Lhakhang depict
various lamas of the Sakya sect while the right wall
shows the various manifestations of Sakyamuni, the Historical
Buddha. The central panel of the right wall depicts
Tilopa, Naropa, Marpa and Mila Ras-pa, historical personages
associated with the early doctrines of the Saka sect.
In front of the Lhakhang is dominated by the throne
seat reserved for the Sakya sect's head lama who now
resides in Dehra Dun. The central statue behind the
throne is Sakyamuni, the Historical Buddha, blanked
by the red decorated hats worn by Matho's oracles. Surrounding
the statue are numerous small Buddha statues flanked
by the canonical texts of Buddhism. After leaving the
Lhakhang, the entrance to the ukhang or main assembly
hall is visible on the right side of the courtyard.
The verandah is again painted with the Guardians of
the Four Directions but the murals are old and not in
very good condition. Inside the Dukhang are two rows
of seats for the lamas and a throne seat reserved for
the Rimpoche or head lama of Matho. The four statues
behind the throne seat are, from the left, the thousand-armed
form of Avalokitesvara (a Buddhist deity analogous to
the Hindu god Shiva and believed to be reincarnated
in the Dalai Lama), Maitreya (the Future Buddha of Compassion),
Sakyamuni and a blessing Buddha. The wall on the left
side of the Dykhang shows various Sakya lamas and the
Four Headed Sarvavid. The right wall depicts the four-armed
manifestation of Avalokitesvara, a blue Sakyamuni and
two Sakya lamas. The entrance wall has Mahakala the
fiercest Buddhist guardian divinity on the left and
other protecting deities on the right. Upon leaving
the Dukhang, climb the flight of steps on the right,
walk through the enclosed passageway towards the left
until a wooden ladder is reached. Climb the ladder and
at the top go through the door immediately in front
and enter a small courtyard. Go through the door at
the opposite end of the courtyard and there are two
rooms to be seen: the Gonkhang on the left and the gompa
museum on the right. Women are not allowed in the Gonkhang
and photography is prohibited.
The Gonkhang, in which meditation takes place, is ascribed
great spiritual power as it is the room in which Matho's
order prays and enters into a trance. The oracle's special
clothing is hung in this room and the Gokhang also contains
old weapons and thanks, masks and statues. Directly
opposite the entrance is the seat of the head lama and
in front of that is a table for maize and oil lamps.
According to an old custom, a representative of every
family from Matho village brings a small bowl of maize
grain from the first harvest to this room. This practice
is not accompanied by any special ceremony. One lama,
changed every three years, is particularly responsible
for the Gonkhang. The museum opposite the Gonkhang contains,
among other things, numerous thanks, a stuffed yak,
a poorly stuffed and preserved snow leopard, masks,
stucco statuettes. Phurbos (ceremonial daggers) and
miscellaneous ritual objects. Leaving this area of the
gompa and returning to the small outer courtyard, on
the right is the Lamdre, a shrine in honor of the Lamdre
lineage of lamas. Lamdre is a special teaching associated
with the Sakya sect. Photography is not permitted in
this room, which contains numerous statues of various
Sakya lamas, old thanks and small Buddha and Mahakala
statues.