Likir
Gompa Likir gompa was
established in the 15th century and early in its history
became responsible for the oversight of Alchi gompa,
to which it has posted lamas up to the present day.
The gompa is set on an isolated ridge a few kilometers
north of Saspol. The road approaching the gompa makes
a wide semi-circle around its base, affording beautiful
views of the gompa from different vantage points. Likir
belongs to the yellow-hat sect of Buddhism and currently
houses about 120 lamas. The head lama, the younger bother
of the Dalai Lama, has married (against the rule of
the sect) and is permanently absent from the gompa.
The gompa school has some thirty pupils who learn three
languages besides Ladakhi, Hindi and English, as these
are the national languages of India, and Tibetan for
religious purposes. The pupils, some of who will be
selected as lamas, live part of the time in the gompa
and part of the time with their parents. Climb up to
Likir's central courtyard and immediately on the right
is the main Dukhang or main assembly hall.
The entrance verandah is painted with the Guardians
of the Four Directions on either side of the entry door.
On the right verandah wall is a wheel of life mandala
held by Yama, the divinity that decides a person's future
fate after death. In the main Dukhang, there are six
rows of seats for the lamas. This is where the day's
prayers take place and also where the lamas take their
meals. Numerous thankas hang from the columns and walls
in the Dukhang. At the front on the left are two large
chortens. Inside the chorten on the left is a statue
of Avalokitesvara, a Bodhisattva whose name means "Lord
of All He Surveys" and who is believed to be incarnated
in the Dalai Lama. The chorten on the right contains
a statue of Aitabha the Buddha of the West.
In
the center at the front of the hall are three large
statues: in the left and central position are statues
of Sakyamuni (the Historical Buddha) and to the right
is Maitreya (the Future Buddha or Buddha of Compassion).
To the right of this are statues of Tsong-kha-pa, founder
of the yellow-hat sect with his two disciples. The throne
seat in the centre of the hall is reserved for Likir's
head lama and visiting head lamas from other gompas.
The walls on both sides of the Dukhang are lined with
glass-fronted bookcases containing the Kandshur and
the Thandshur. The entrance walls are painted with various
guardian divinities. Near the entrance, by looking up,
one can see two large, rolled-up thankas hanging from
the beams. These thankas are displayed only during the
winter festival. One depicts Sakyamuni and the other
Likir's guardian divinity. Exiting the Dukhang, diagonally
across from the courtyard's entrance is the "New"
Dukhang, about 200 years old. Interestingly, the entrance
verandah is not painted with the Guardians of the Four
Directions, as is the usual practice. Instead, the wall
on the left depicts the different ways a lama may wear
his robes while the right wall shows the correct way
lamas should behave. The Guardians of the Four Directions
appear on the right entrance wall inside the New Dukhang.
The main image in this Dukhang is Avalokitesvara with
1000 arms and 11 heads. On either side of this image
are bookcases, filled mostly with volumes of the Sumbum,
a narrative of the life of Tsong-kha-pa. The left side
wall is painted with the 35 Confessional Buddhas. The
right side wall depicts the 16 Arhats (worthy ones who
have achieved Nirvana) on either side of a central image
of Sakyamuni flanked by his two chief disciples.
After
leaving the New Dukhang, turn left and go up a ladder
one flight of steps. Step through the doorway to the
left into a courtyard. On the far left side is an entry
door into the Zinchun, the head lama's room, where the
Dalai Lama stays when he visits Likir. The room is hung
with numerous thankas and contains images of various
lamas. Of particular interest are the images of the
21 Manifestations of the White Tara (the Saviouress
and consort of Avalokitesvara). Each image is decorated
with brocaded fabric and the entire effect of these
images arranged around the room is very striking. Leave
the courtyard outside the head lama's room, turn left
and go down a few steps. On the left is the new Gonkhang,
devoted to guardian divinities. Work on this temple
began in 1983 and was completed a year later. The artistry
of this temple vividly demonstrates the continuing vitality
of Buddhism in this region. The left side wall depicts
guardian divinities while the right side wall shows
Sakyamuni, his disciples and various lamas. The right
front wall depicts Tsong-kha-pa. The glass-fronted room
at the front of the Gonkhang contains images of the
gompa's guardian divinities. These images are covered
by cloth all year and are displayed only during the
gompa's festival.